Nei madhayeti asingashande? Yakatsanangurwa neSainzi Mutori wenhau Harold McGee

Nezve kudya kwevatenzi

Muna 1863, mutakuri wechirungu William Bunting akanyora kabhuku kainzi A Tsamba Kukwana Kuvanhu. Muchokwadi, iri raive rekutanga bhuku rezvekudya zvinovaka muviri, munyori waro akataura nezve ake mazhinji makore asina maturo kuyedza kuonda - pa60 aiyera 100 kg. Kushanda nesimba, kukwira bhiza, madhaka ekugezera uye mamwe maitiro anoita kunge anoshanda zvinongotungamira mukuwedzera kwekuda kudya. Nzira chete inoshanda yaive chikafu chakatemerwa Bunting naDr.William Harvey, uyo akapa zano kubvisa chingwa, shuga, mbatatisi, ruomba, mukaka nedoro kubva muchikafu, sezvo "zvakazara nemahydrohydrate uye zvichikonzera kusagadzikana kwemetabolism." Mukuwedzera, chiremba akaisa chirongwa chakajeka chekudya icho chisina kumboitwa nemunhu. Mumwedzi mishoma, mutakuri akarasa makirogiramu makumi matatu pakudya kwakaderera-kacarb, uye yake yemapeji 30-edition yakave inotengesa pasi rese.

Mutori wenhau weSainzi Harold McGee, munyori weOn Food & Cooking: Iyo Science & Lore yeKicheni, rimwe remabhuku gumi ekubikisa akanakisa ezana ramakore reXNUMXth, anotenda kuti matambudziko asingagumi ekuderedza uremu uye dhayeti akatanga nebhurocha raBunting. Kubva vanhu pavakaona kuti chikafu chakagadzirwa nemafuta, mapuroteni uye makabhohaidhiretsi, chimwe nechimwe chezvinhu izvi chakanzi hachina hutano uye chakadzingwa nguva nenguva. Isu tinoziva nezve carbohydrate-yemahara (ketogenic, paleolithic uye kudya Atkins), yakaderera-mafuta (DASH uye Pritikin), uye mapuroteni-asina kudya. Asi chokwadi ndechekuti hapana chimwe cheizvi chikafu chinoratidzwa nesainzi kuti chinoshanda.

“Pandakatanga kunyora nezvechikafu, ndaive nechido chekushamwaridzana nehukama pakati pechikafu nehutano hwevanhu. Asi mushure memakore gumi, ndakaona kuti ese mafungidziro ezvehutano akachinja! Mushure meizvozvo, ndakafunga kuti handichazoite izvi, - Harold McGee akatiudza panguva yekushanya kwake kuMoscow kune Twins Science science festival. “Mushure mezvose, masayendisiti haasati ave neruzivo rwakakwana nezvekuti muviri wemunhu unoshanda sei, chii chaizvo chinodiwa kuti ushande zvakanaka, mapuroteni, mafuta kana makabhohaidhiretsi, atinofanira kushandisa, uye kuti metabolism inoshanduka sei masikati. Kubva pakuona kwesainzi, hapana munhu anogona kukurudzira vanhu kuti vadye zvimwe zvekudya. ”

 

Pamusoro pevavengi vakuru vevanhu

Pakati pezana ramakore rapfuura, muvengi wekutanga wevanhu akawanikwa muUnited States, uye yakanga isiri iyo Soviet Union, asi… mafuta! Izvo zvakaziviswa kuti chikafu chine mafuta chinotungamira kune atherosclerosis uye chirwere chemoyo, uye zvakanyanya mafuta atinodya, inowedzera njodzi yezvirwere izvi. Nhasi, makore makumi matanhatu gare gare, vanachiremba vanoziva kuti kudya kwakaderera-mafuta hakuna hutano zvakanyanya nekuti kune shuga yakawanda uye macalorie. Asi kunyangwe pano Harold McGee anopa zano kuti asanyanyoenda kure nemitemo inorambidzwa: “Hongu, shuga haifanire kudyiwa zvakasiyana, asi izvi hazvireve kuti iwe unofanirwa kusabvisa zvachose. Makarotsi, maranjisi, kana maapuro ane shuga yakawanda, isingakuvadze. Kana zviri zvekudzivirirwa parizvino kwemamwe makabhohaidhiretsi, ngatitarisei kuEast: kuChina nekuJapan, huwandu hwakanyanya hwevane zana, uye chikafu chavo chakasimba makabhohaidhiretsi uye mashoma mapuroteni. "

Kuti isu takasiyana

Mu2018, chiremba weStanford University Christopher Gardner akaitisa chidzidzo kuti azive kamwechete uye zvachose - chinonyanya kushanda: kudya kwemafuta mashoma kana kudya kwemahydrohydrate? Iko kuyedza kwaisanganisira mazana matanhatu evanozvipira avo vakaisirwa pamhando mbiri idzi dzekudya. Mhedzisiro yacho yaisakurudzira: vamwe vakarasika huremu, uye vamwe havana. Uyezve, vamwe vevazvipiri vakatokwanisa kuve nani! Kubva pane izvi, masayendisiti akasvika pamhedziso inosuruvarisa yekuti kudya kunobatsira mumwe munhu kurasikirwa uremu hakushande pane vamwe. Zvese zvinhu zvemunhu.

Harold McGee anosimbisa iyi dzidziso: “Muviri womunhu unochinja nyore nyore kuchinhu chiri chose: tinogona kurarama munzvimbo dzinopisa uye muArctic. Miviri yedu inovakwa kuti tigone kubata chero chikafu chatingawana. Mhando yakanakisisa yezvokudya zvemunhu ndeyekusiyana-siyana: kune zvakawanda zvakasiyana-siyana zvigadzirwa, uye kuitira kuti pasina chimwe chazvo pane zvakawanda kana, pane zvinopesana, kushaya simba. Kana uchida kurarama kwenguva refu uye kuva noutano hwakanaka, unofanira kungwarira kwete bedzi kuzvokudya zvinovaka muviri, asiwo kumatanho mangani aunotora zuva nezuva, zvinetso zvoutano izvo vabereki vako vaiva nazvo, zvichingodaro. Winston Churchill, somuenzaniso, akafa pazera ramakore 90, apo aiputa midzanga nokunwa whiskey zuva nezuva sokupenga, aida kudya uye akanga akafuta. Pfungwa yehupenyu hunofadza ndeyekunakidzwa nezvaunoda chaizvo. ”

Mutambo wechipiri wepasi rose Mapatya Sayenzi, akarongeka nevabiki Ivan naSergei Berezutsky, yakaitirwa muMoscow muna Mbudzi 7 na8. Misoro mikuru yemutambo uyu yaive sainzi, dzidzo uye kusanganisa kwetekinoroji dzepamberi muchizvino gastronomy neresitorendi mamiriro. Dzidziso dzakapihwa nevanozivikanwa shefu uye gastronomy vaongorori vanobva kutenderera pasirese: chef weMaido restaurant Mitsuharu Tsumura, sainzi mutapi venhau Bob Holmes, chef weDefrutar restaurant Oriol Castro, chef weLa Calandre restaurant Massimiliano Alaimo, chef weLESS restaurant naHertog Jan Gert de Kushaya, Rijks restaurant chef Joris Beydendijk, sainzi mutapi venhau Harold McGee, gastronomic mutori wenhau Anna Kukulina, Savva restaurant chef Andrey Shmakov. Kupinda kwehurukuro kwaive kwemahara, kuitira kuti munhu wese, zvisinei nechero hupfumi hwezvinhu, aigona kudzidza kubva kuvakuru vakasarudzika uye vesaenzi.

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