Sekondi yega yega rori rembatya rinoenda kunoraswa. Vatengi vanoziva izvi havadi kutenga zvigadzirwa zvisingaenderane nenharaunda. Kuchengetedza nyika nebhizinesi ravo, vagadziri vembatya vakatanga kusona zvinhu kubva kumabhanana nemaalgae
Mufekitari saizi yechiteshi chenhandare yendege, malaser cutters anocheka machira edonje marefu, achicheka angave maoko emabhachi eZara. Kusvikira gore rapfuura, zvimedu zvakawira mumatswanda esimbi zvaishandiswa sekuzadza fenicha yakasimudzwa kana kutumirwa zvakananga kunorasirwa marara muguta reArteijo kuchamhembe kweSpain. Ikozvino ivo vanogadzirwa nemakemikari kuita cellulose, yakasanganiswa nehuni fiber, uye vakagadzira chinhu chinonzi refibra, icho chinoshandiswa kugadzira zvinopfuura gumi nemaviri zvinhu zvembatya: T-shirts, bhurugwa, misoro.
Ichi danho reInditex, kambani ine Zara uye mamwe manomwe mabhureki. Yese inomiririra chikamu cheindasitiri yemafashoni inozivikanwa nehembe dzakachipa dzinofashura mawadhiropu evatengi pakutanga kwemwaka wega wega uye mushure memwedzi mishoma vanoenda kubhasiketi remarara kana kumasherufu ari kure ewadhiropu.
- Pamusoro pavo, Gap anovimbisa kushandisa vashandi chete kubva kumapurazi ega kana kubva kumaindasitiri asingakuvadze nharaunda panosvika 2021;
- Kambani yeJapan Fast Retailing, iyo ine Uniqlo, iri kuedza nekugadzirisa laser kuderedza kushandiswa kwemvura nemakemikari mu jeans inoshungurudzika;
- Hofori yeSweden Hennes & Mauritz iri kuisa mari mukutanga-up inyanzvi mukuvandudza matekinoroji ekudzoreredza marara uye kugadzira zvinhu kubva kune zvisiri zvechinyakare, senge howa mycelium.
"Rimwe rematambudziko makuru nderekupa fashoni kune vanhu vari kuramba vachikura asi tichichengetedza zvakatipoteredza," anodaro H&M CEO Karl-Johan Persson. "Tinongoda kuchinjira kune zero-marara yekugadzira modhi."
Indasitiri yemadhora mazana matatu emadhora inoshandisa zvisingafungidzike zvedonje, mvura uye magetsi kugadzira mabhiriyoni zana ezvipfeko uye zvishongedzo gore rega rega, 3% yacho, maererano naMcKinsey, inoraswa mukati megore. Zvisingasviki 100% yezvinhu zvinogadzirwa zvinodzokororwa kuita zvinhu zvitsva, Rob Opsomer, mushandi wekambani yekutsvagisa yeChirungu Ellen MacArthur Foundation, anobvuma. “Rinenge rori rakazara remachira rinoenda kunorasirwa marara sekondi yoga yoga,” anodaro.
Muna 2016, Inditex yakagadzira 1,4 miriyoni zvimedu zvembatya. Uku kumhanya kwekugadzira kwakabatsira kambani kuwedzera kukosha kwayo kwemusika zvakapetwa kashanu mumakore gumi apfuura. Asi ikozvino kukura kwemusika kwakaderera: millennials, vanoongorora kukanganisa kwe "fast fashion" pane zvakatipoteredza, vanosarudza kubhadhara zviitiko uye manzwiro, pane zvinhu. Inditex neH&M mihoro yakaderera pane zvaitarisirwa nevaongorori mumakore achangopfuura, uye migove yemusika yemakambani yadzikira nechikamu chimwe muzvitatu muna 2018. "Mabhizimusi avo emhando haisi zero-marara," anodaro Edwin Ke, CEO weHong Kong Light. Indasitiri Research Institute. "Asi isu tese tatova nezvinhu zvakakwana."
Maitiro ekushandisa zvine hungwaru anoraira ayo ega mamiriro: iwo makambani anochinjira kumarara-isina kugadzirwa nenguva anogona kuwana mukana wekukwikwidza. Kudzikisa huwandu hwemarara, vatengesi vakaisa midziyo yakakosha muzvitoro zvakawanda uko vatengi vanogona kusiya zvinhu izvo zvinozotumirwa kuti zvidzoke zvakare.
Accenture retail consultant Jill Standish anotenda kuti makambani anogadzira zvipfeko zvinogara zvakadaro anogona kukwezva vatengi vakawanda. “Bag rakagadzirwa nemashizha emuzambiringa kana rokwe reorenji harichisiri zvinhu chete, pane nyaya inonakidza kumashure,” anodaro.
H&M inovavarira kugadzira zvinhu zvese kubva kune zvakadzokororwa uye zvakagadzikana zvinhu panosvika 2030 (ikozvino mugove wezvinhu zvakadaro 35%). Kubva 2015, kambani yanga ichitsigira makwikwi ekutanga ayo matekinoroji anobatsira kuderedza kukanganisa kweindasitiri yemafashoni pane zvakatipoteredza. Vakwikwidzi vanokwikwidza kupihwa € 1 miriyoni ($1,2 miriyoni). Mumwe wevakakunda gore rapfuura ndiSmart Stitch, iyo yakagadzira tambo inonyungudika pakupisa kwakanyanya. Iyi tekinoroji ichabatsira kukwenenzvera kudzokorodza kwezvinhu, kufambisa maitiro ekubvisa mabhatani uye zippers kubva muzvipfeko. Kutanga Crop-A-Porter akadzidza kugadzira shinda kubva mumarara kubva mufurakisi, mabhanana uye mapanapple minda. Mumwe mukwikwidzi akagadzira tekinoroji yekuparadzanisa mafibhi emhando dzakasiyana kana uchigadzira machira akasanganiswa, nepo mamwe ekutanga achigadzira mbatya kubva kune howa uye algae.
Muna 2017, Inditex yakatanga kudzoreredza zvipfeko zvekare kuita zvinonzi zvidimbu zvine nhoroondo. Mhedzisiro yekuedza kwese kwekambani mumunda wekugadzira zvine mutoro (zvinhu zvakaitwa kubva kumucheka wekotoni, kushandisa ribbed uye zvimwe eco-zvinhu) yaive Join Life yekupfeka mutsara. Muna 2017, 50% zvimwe zvinhu zvakabuda pasi pechiratidzo ichi, asi mukutengesa kweInditex, zvipfeko zvakadaro hazviiti zvinopfuura 10%. Kuwedzera kugadzirwa kwemachira akasimba, kambani inotsigira tsvakiridzo kuMassachusetts Institute of Technology uye akati wandei eSpanish mayunivhesiti.
Pakazosvika 2030, H&M inoronga kuwedzera chikamu chezvekudzokororwa kana kusimba muzvigadzirwa zvayo kusvika ku100% kubva pazvino makumi matatu neshanu muzana.
Imwe yetekinoroji iyo vatsvakurudzi vari kushanda pairi ndeyekugadzirwa kwembatya kubva kune-yakagadzirwa nekugadzirwa kwehuni uchishandisa 3D kudhinda. Mamwe masayendisiti ari kudzidza kupatsanura shinda dzedonje kubva mupolyester mukugadzira micheka yakasanganiswa.
"Tiri kuyedza kutsvaga mavhezheni akasvibira ezvese zvinhu," anodaro German Garcia Ibáñez, anotarisira kudzokorodza kuInditex. Sekureva kwake, majean akagadzirwa kubva kuzvinhu zvakadzokororwa zvino ane 15% chete yekotoni yakadzokororwa - shinda dzekare dzinosakara uye dzinoda kusanganiswa neitsva.
Inditex neH&M vanoti makambani anobhadhara mari yekuwedzera ine chekuita nekushandisa machira akadzokororwa uye akadzoserwa. Joinha zvinhu zveHupenyu zvinodhura zvakangofanana nedzimwe mbatya muzvitoro zveZara: T-shirts dzinotengeswa nemari isingasviki madhora gumi, nepo mabhurugwa asingadhure madhora makumi mana. H&M inotaurawo nezvechinangwa chayo chekuchengeta mitengo yakaderera yembatya dzakagadzirwa kubva kune zvakagadzikana zvinhu, kambani inotarisira kuti nekukura kwekugadzira, mutengo wezvigadzirwa zvakadaro uchave wakaderera. "Panzvimbo yekumanikidza vatengi kubhadhara mutengo, tinongozviona sekudyara kwenguva refu," anodaro Anna Gedda, anoona nezvekugadzirwa kwakasimba paH&M. "Tinotenda kuti fashoni yegirinhi inogona kukwanisika kune chero mutengi."