Kana shea, jojoba, avocado uye soya zviroto zve cosmetologists uye ecological mafeni erunako uye hutano, zvinodikanwa kuti upfuure nesipo usati wasvika kune zvigadzirwa izvi zvinorumbidzwa nekuda kwekubatsira kwavo. Nzira yekugadzira sipo inonzi saponification. Zvigadzirwa zvinobva mazviri ndizvo zvisingagoneke.

Iri izwi rinobva kuLatin: muchivande, sapo rinoreva sipo uye abilis yekugona. Saka icho chigadzirwa chisingakwanise kushandura kuita sipo. Kuti unzwisise unsaponification, munhu anofanira kutonzwisisa kuti chii chinonzi saponification, kureva, nhoroondo yekugadzira sipo.

Kusvikira muzana remakore rechi19, takageza, takavhara uye takabvisa (bvudzi semuenzaniso) nesipo yakawanikwa nemafuta emhuka (kazhinji nyama yenguruve) yatakaita ne potashi (hwaro huripo mumadota). Zvadaro, takashandisa mafuta emiriwo akabatwa nesoda (base inowanikwa kubva mumvura yegungwa.

Kuti uwane pundutso iri nani, indasitiri inopisa saponification zvishoma nezvishoma yakatsiva saponification inotonhora, artisanal asi iri kudzoka nekuti inochengeta hunhu hwemafuta (akaparadzwa nekupisa).

Kupfupisa:

• Iyo isingaponifiable nyaya ndiyo yakasara chikamu (chisinganyunguriki mumvura asi chinonyungudika mu organic solvents) chinowanikwa mushure me saponification;
• Mune imwe equation: mafuta kana mafuta zvinhu + soda = sipo + glycerin + non-saponifiable non-glyceridic fraction;
• Chikamu chisingatauriki chemafuta emiriwo chinowana mashandisiro mu cosmetology yezvinhu zvaro zvoutachiona.

Kuti tinzwisise kufarira kwezvisingatauriki, isu tinofanirwa kupfuura mubhokisi: kuchembera uye ganda oxidation. Muviri unoburitsa mahara radicals ayo basa nderekuchenesa masero eganda. Vanozvibvisa. Asi kana yakawandisa (kusvibiswa, fodya, UV, nezvimwewo), vanorwisa masero uye zvinyorwa zvavo (elastin, collagen). Izvi zvinonzi "oxidative stress" inokonzera kukwegura kweganda. Uye apa ndipo apo vasinaponifiables vanoratidza mabhenefiti avo.

Chinyorwa chakareba. Sezvatakanzwisisa, ndiwo mafuta emiriwo anoshandiswa. Chigadzirwa chimwe nechimwe kana "chinoshanda" chine zvimiro zvaro. Ivo ipfuma yeganda.

• Polyphenols ine zvakakosha zvikuru antioxidant properties (pakati pavo, tannins inorwisa mabhakitiriya, flavonoids inopesana nekuputika uye lignans ndeye seboregulators);
• Phytosterols (yemiriwo cholesterol) ari kupora, kugadzirisa uye ane anti-kupisa zvinhu. Ivo vanovandudza iyo "chipingamupinyi" basa reganda uye microcirculation. Vanononoka kukwegura kweganda;
• Carotenoids inopa "kutaridzika kwakanaka." Ndeavo vanopaka mafuta. Iwo ane simba echisikigo antioxidants ayo anomutsiridza uye kugadzirisa ganda. Ivo vanokurudzira synthesis ye collagen uye photoprotectors.

Rondedzero yacho inewo mavhitamini akawanda:

• B mavitamini anodzivirira uye anovandudza masero;
• Vitamin C inokurumidza kuporesa;
• Vitamin D inodzora uye inofambisa kubatwa kwecalcium. Inochengetedza hydration yeganda;
• Vitamin E inodzivirira kubva mukuchembera kuburikidza neiyo antioxidant uye anti-chepfu chiito;
• Vitamin K inodzikamisa kutsvuka.

Kune urwu runyorwa rwakawedzerwa:

• Enzymes: kudzivirira kubva pakukwegura;
• Resinous esters: kudzivirira uye kuporesa;
• Squalene: antioxidants.

Mafuta mazhinji uye mamwe mafuta ane 2% kana isingasviki nyaya isinaponifiable. Asi mamwe mamwe ane zvakawanda:

• Shea butter ine 15%. Shea kana kuti “butter tree” kana kuti “ndarama yevakadzi” inokura kuWest Africa. Iyo inoburitsa nzungu idzo dzakatsikwa maamondi dzinopa bota. Iri bhotela rinoshandiswa kunyorovesa uye kupfavisa ganda;
• Beewax uye Jojoba mafuta ane 50%. Jojoba inowanikwa kumaodzanyemba kweUnited States uye kuchamhembe kweMexico, asi minda yava kuwanikwa munyika dzakawanda. Imbeu dzayo (dzinonzi bhinzi kana maarumondi) dzine mafuta emashiripiti;
• Avocado uye soya maoiri anozivikanwa mukurapa kweayo anti-arthritis zvimiro: mushonga unoshandiswa mune rheumatology (osteoarthritis yemabvi nehudyu) uye mune stomatology asi yavo SMR (chaiyo kubatsirwa) inoonekwa seisina kukwana kana kutova nenjodzi. Aya ndiwo maISA: unsaponifiables ye soya uye avocado ine zvisingadiwe mhedzisiro asi isina njodzi mukushandisa kwavo zvizoro.
• Izvo zvinofanirwa kucherechedzwa kuti surgras sipo sipo umo unsaponifiables yakaunzwa iyo yakanyungudika mune organic solvents.