Mukati
Openwork tights, madhirezi, machira anoonekera, shangu dzepingi - zvese izvi zvinhu zve ... fashoni yevarume mumwaka uchangopfuura. Mafambiro aya anoti kudii? Uye chii icho vagadziri vanotungamira venyika vanodaidzira kuti varume vaite?
Tunics dzevaRoma vekare uye mabhuruku evakadzi vekuMabvazuva, sarongs yeIndia uye African djellaba, iyo inopfekwa nevarume nevakadzi panguva imwe chete - idzi uye mamwe marudzi ezvokupfeka zvinoratidza kuti munhoroondo yenyika yemafashoni hapana hukama hwakajeka. pakati pemasiketi nematirauzi ane murume kana mukadzi. Izvo zvese zvinoenderana nenzvimbo chaiyo uye nguva yekuita. Zvinoenderana nezviyero zvetsika yedu yeEurope yemazana emakore apfuura, kutaridzika kwemurume mujasi paruzhinji kunotyisa kana chiratidzo chemaitiro asiri echinyakare. Zvichakadaro, varume vakadaro vanowedzera. Sei?
“Maitiro aya haasi matsva zvachose,” inodaro nyanzvi yezvetsika Olga Vainshtein. — Rangarira mugadziri wechiFrench Jean-Paul Gaultier's Une garde-robe pour deux collection nemasiketi evarume - iyi yaive muna 1985. Muna 2003-2004, Metropolitan Museum of Art yakabata chiratidziro chakakurumbira "Bravehearts. Varume vakapfeka masiketi «(» Daredevils: varume mune masiketi «). Asi, hongu, mumakore maviri apfuura, nhamba yekuunganidza kwevarume nemashoko ezvokupfeka zvevakadzi yakawedzera zvakanyanya, uyezve, iyi fashoni yakatanga kushingaira kufamba muupenyu.
Vanhu vane mukurumbira vari kuwedzera kuoneka mumadhirezi uye masiketi pamakapeti matsvuku kana zviitiko zvakakosha munharaunda. Pakati pavo pane Jaden Smith ane makore gumi nemasere, mwanakomana waWill Smith, vatambi Jared Leto, Van Diesel, muimbi Kanye West. Uye zvechokwadi, fan inonyanya kuzivikanwa yekilt, masiketi, sundresses uye zvimwe zvinhu zvewadhiropu zvevakadzi ndiye mugadziri wemafashoni weAmerica, mugadziri wemhando yake Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs.
Ekaterina Orel, nyanzvi yezvepfungwa:
Zvimwe pamusoro pechishuwo chevarume vemazuva ano chekunzwisisa vakadzi zviri nani. Mushure mezvose, kukakavara pamusoro pebasa revanhu, kodzero uye mikana yevakadzi munharaunda hairegi, pane zvinopesana. Kune rimwe divi, kudzidziswa "pfeka masiketi uye ushandire murume wako" kwakawedzera kushanda, uye kune rimwe divi, hurukuro ine simba yenhaurirano dzemhuri nemhirizhonga yepabonde, kufarira kwevakadzi mumabasa echivanhu echirume ... Uye zvinoratidzika kwandiri kuti fashoni. zvema skirts evarume rudzi rwekuenderera mberi kwehurukuro iyi. Pane kutaura kwakanaka muChirungu — kumira mubhutsu dzangu (chaizvoizvo “kumira mushangu dzangu”), zvinoreva kubvuma maonero, mamiriro, pfungwa dzemumwe munhu. Vagadziri vemafashoni vanomanikidzira varume kuti vaedze basa remukadzi nezvose zvaro, zvakanakira uye zvinogumira.
Olga Weinstein, nyanzvi yezvetsika:
Ini ndinoona maitiro aya kunyanya sechikamu chemaitiro akajairwa kune kuparadzwa kwezvibvumirano uye tsika dzetsika mumafashoni. Iyi nhevedzano inosanganisira mishandirapamwe yekupikisa photoshop, kutaridzika papodium yevakadzi vakafuta, vanhu vakaremara, mhando dzechikuru. Uye nenzira yakamanikana, chimiro ichi chinotsanangurwa nechirevo che "gender-bending", zvinoreva kuwedzera, kupfava kwemiganhu yakaoma yevakadzi. Nhasi, kusangana kwemabasa, kuitwa kwevakadzi uye kusunungurwa kwevakadzi kuri kuitika pamatanho akasiyana. Vakadzi vari kuwedzera kuva nesimba uye kubudirira. Munyika inotaura Chirungu, kune pfungwa ye "kugonesa vakadzi", zvinoreva kusimbisa zvigaro nemikana yevakadzi, kuwedzera kuzvivimba kwavo. Uye varume, pane zvinopesana, vari kuwedzera kuratidza hunyoro uye hukadzi - yeuka rudzi rwemetrosexual rwakaonekwa mukutanga kwema2000, uye panguva imwechete mitemo mitsva yekuzvitarisira kwevarume, kuzvitarisira kwakauya mufashoni.
Skirt - chiratidzo chehurume?
Nekune rumwe rutivi, nzira yekuitwa kwevakadzi nevarume iri kuita dambudziko rakakura nhasi. Phillip Zimbardo, wekare wesocial psychology, akapa bhuku rakasiyana mukurasikirwa nekuzivikanwa kwavo nevarume.1. «CVakomana vemazuva ano vari kufoira here muzvidzidzo, mumagariro, uye pabonde, uye vakadzi vari pasi pemakore makumi matatu ezera vari kukunda varume mune zvese zvedzidzo nemuhoro here? - anosimbisa Philip Zimbardo. “Kunzwanana kwomurume nomukadzi kuri kuramba kuchivhiringidzwa. Kuti tidzorere kuenzanisa pakati pevarume nevakadzi, zvinofanirwa kuti kodzero yekusimudza nyaya dzekuenzana ipihwewo kumurume.
Panyaya iyi, kukurudzirwa kwemapendero uye zvipfeko nevarume chiratidzo chakanaka, kuedza kudzorera kuenzana. Chokwadi vakadzi vakapfeka mabhurugwa kubva kutanga kwezana ramakore rapfuura, saka sei varume vachiri kufanira kupatsanura hembe kuita dzechirume nedzechikadzi?
Asi fashoni yefashoni ine imwe kona. “Kungofanana nechinoitika chipi nechipi munyika yapashure penguva yazvino uno, masiketi evarume ane mashoko maviri: munzira dzakawanda anosimbisa urume hwomupfekedzi wawo,” inodaro nyanzvi yendangariro Ekaterina Orel. - Mushure mezvose, kushamwaridzana kwekutanga nejasi remurume ndeye kilt, zvipfeko zvevakwiri vemakomo, vane aura yeushingi uye hutsinye mutsika dzekuMadokero. Nokudaro, kupfeka siketi, murume, kune rumwe rutivi, anoedza pamufananidzo wechikadzi, uye kune rumwe rutivi, anozivisa simba rake uye hukuru, achisimbisa kubatanidzwa nemufananidzo wemhuka yehondo.
“Varume vakapfeka masiketi vanotaridzika sechirume chaizvo,” anotsinhira kudaro Olga Weinstein. - Ngatirangarirei mauto ekare echiRoma mumachira mapfupi. Kana, semuenzaniso, siketi nhema yeganda, bhutsu dzevarume dzakakasharara, mashanga kumeso uye maoko evarume ane tsandanyama - musanganiswa uyu unogadzira mufananidzo une hutsinye.
Imwe nzira kana imwe, kusunungurwa kwemaitiro emagariro uye miganhu yevarume, kuwirirana kwavo kuri pachena. Izvi zvinofambiswa nemaitiro ekudyidzana kwenyika dzepasi rose. “Mabhurugwa ebhurukwa, zvipfeko zvegamuchidzanwa zvokumabvazuva, zvava kuva fashoni munyika yose, sarong haapfekwi kwete bedzi navanhu vanobva kuSoutheast Asia, asiwo navaEurope, David Beckham, somuenzaniso, anoada,” anoyeuchidza kudaro Olga Weinstein. - Ndiko, hongu, tinogona kutaura nezve kuwirirana kweEast neWest uye kuwedzera kwekukwereta kwetsika. Kubuda kwemhando dze transgender - varume nevakadzi vanochinja bonde nenzira yekuvhiya - kunopupurira kusunungurwa kwemaitiro.
1 F. Zimbardo, N. Colombe "Murume Mukuparadzana: Mitambo, Zvinonyadzisira uye Kurasikirwa Kwekuzivikanwa" (bhuku rakabudiswa muna August 2016 naAlpina Publisher).